Kota Kinabalu

Five islands — Gaya, Sapi, Manukan, Mamutik, and Sulug — make up the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, a protected marine reserve just 15–20 minutes by boat from the KK waterfront. Manukan is the most developed, with a resort, snorkelling gear hire, and clear water over healthy coral. Sapi is smaller and more relaxed, with excellent snorkelling and a beach barbecue scene. Mamutik is the quietest of the three main islands and has the best coral for snorkelling. Boats depart from Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal throughout the morning — buy a combined island-hopping ticket (RM 30–50) and spend the day moving between islands.

The sunset from the KK waterfront esplanade is one of the great free experiences in Malaysia. Every evening, locals and visitors gather along the seafront as the sun drops towards the islands of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, turning the South China Sea gold and then deep orange. The best vantage points are the esplanade itself, the Signal Hill Observatory Park above the city centre, and the rooftop bars of the hotels along Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. The sunset is consistently spectacular — cloud formations over the South China Sea add drama even on hazy evenings.

Even if you are not climbing it, Mount Kinabalu is worth a day trip from KK. The Kinabalu National Park headquarters at Timpohon Gate (1,866 metres) is a two-hour drive from the city and offers excellent jungle walks through montane forest, a mountain garden with over 1,500 plant species, and views of the summit on clear mornings. The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the world's largest pitcher plants, rare orchids, and the Rafflesia — the world's largest flower. For those who want to climb, the two-day summit trek requires advance booking through Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (permits sell out months ahead).

Kota Kinabalu is one of the best cities in Malaysia for seafood — the catch comes in fresh every morning from the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea, and the open-air seafood restaurants along the waterfront and in the Filipino Market area serve it at prices that would be unthinkable in KL. Specialities include butter prawns, steamed lapu-lapu (grouper), chilli crab, grilled stingray, and fresh oysters. The Night Market at the Filipino Market (Pasar Malam) is the most atmospheric place to eat — dozens of stalls set up along the waterfront at dusk, grilling seafood over charcoal as the last light fades over the islands.

The Sabah State Museum is the best introduction to the extraordinary cultural and natural diversity of Sabah — a state with over 30 indigenous ethnic groups, a colonial history that passed through the British North Borneo Chartered Company, and a natural environment that includes some of the most biodiverse rainforest on Earth. The museum complex includes ethnographic galleries, natural history exhibits, a heritage village with traditional longhouses, and a science and technology centre. The collection of traditional Kadazan-Dusun, Bajau, and Murut artefacts is particularly strong. Allow two hours for a thorough visit.

Sabah's main wildlife park, located approximately 25 km south of KK, is home to Bornean pygmy elephants, orangutans, proboscis monkeys, sun bears, clouded leopards, and a wide variety of Bornean birds. While not a substitute for seeing wildlife in the wild, Lok Kawi is an excellent introduction to Sabah's extraordinary fauna and a good option for families with children. The park is well-maintained and the animals have large, naturalistic enclosures. Feeding sessions for the orangutans and elephants are the highlights — check the schedule on arrival.

Every Sunday morning, Gaya Street in the heart of KK old town transforms into one of the best street markets in Sabah — a kilometre-long stretch of stalls selling fresh produce, local snacks, handicrafts, plants, pets, and an extraordinary variety of Sabahan street food. The market runs from approximately 6am to 1pm and is at its best between 7am and 10am. Must-try foods include hinava (raw fish marinated in lime juice and chilli — a Kadazan-Dusun speciality), ambuyat (sago starch), and fresh coconut water. The market is free to enter and is one of the most authentic local experiences in KK.

The Klias Wetlands, approximately 90 km south of KK, are one of the best places in Sabah to see proboscis monkeys — the extraordinary long-nosed monkeys endemic to Borneo — in the wild. Afternoon river cruises depart from Klias village and wind through the mangrove forest as the light fades, with proboscis monkeys gathering in the trees along the riverbank at dusk. After dark, the same river comes alive with thousands of synchronised fireflies — one of the most magical natural spectacles in Malaysia. Tours from KK include transport, the river cruise, and dinner.